Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
